King Seiko Watches

King Seiko Introduction

King Seiko was one of Seiko’s two important sub-brands created in the early 1960s to pursue building the ideal watch. Along with Grand Seiko, King Seiko watches combined luxurious finishing with Seiko’s best movements to produce mechanical watches that were among the most accurate available. 

King Seiko History

In the late 1950s, Seiko operated two factories in Japan: Suwa Seikosha and Daini Seikosha. Teams at both factories were challenged to create the most accurate mechanical watch as the company endeavored to directly compete with the Swiss manufacturers that dominated the luxury watch industry. The competition between Suwa and Daini was intended to accelerate innovation and fuel continuous improvement. In 1960, Suwa Seikosha built the first Grand Seiko (3180), a practical three-hand watch internally certified to chronometer standards. A year later, Daini Seikosha delivered the first King Seiko. Because it was not certified, many believed the watch to be of inferior quality to the Grand Seiko.

For the next 14 years, both brands would grow. Production occasionally shifted between factories, and new technologies first held as exclusive to either brand were shared between the two. Grand Seiko emerged as Seiko’s most prestigious line, though King Seiko watches were often specced with the same components. The 45KS and the 45GS, for example, were both loaded with Seiko’s hi-beat 4500 movement. The movement beats at 36,000 bph to provide exceptional accuracy and an extremely smooth second hand sweep. It is often said that the Seiko sub-brands from the 1960s mirror the traditional Japanese corporate hierarchy: Grand Seiko was intended for presidents and CEOs and King Seiko for upper management. Lord Seiko, a third sub-brand, was suitable for lower-level managers. Notable King Seiko models include:

• The 44KS (KSK), an internally certified chronometer with the Seiko Caliber 4420, was released in 1964. Two years later, the watch was released by Grand Seiko as the 44GS with a modified drive for the second hand.
• The hi-beat 45KS was specced with the Daini Seikosha-developed Seiko 4500 movement. The same movement was found in the 45GS. The cushion case on 45KS resembles other Seiko Turtles. But don’t be confused with the branding on the Seiko Prospex King Turtle, which is not part of the King Seiko collection.
• The King Seiko 56KS was produced from 1968 until 1975 by Suwa Seikosha, the factory that normally produced Grand Seiko watches. 
• The automatic 52KS was designated a hi-beat chronometer even though its 28,800 bph frequency was less than a true 36,000 bph hi-beat frequency. The 52KS was the last King Seiko model produced.

When Seiko introduced the Astron in 1969, it ushered in the quartz revolution. Seiko’s quartz technology decimated the mechanical watch industry as newly developed movements offered 100 times greater accuracy than the best mechanical movements. In addition to hundreds of shuttered Swiss manufacturers, the quartz revolution claimed the King Seiko brand as a casualty in 1975.

King Seiko Design and Features

The evolution of King Seiko and Grand Seiko occurred in parallel as Seiko applied many of the same design parameters to both. Taro Tanaka, a Seiko designer, created the Grammar of Design in 1962 to codify the principles that would govern all design decisions for Grand Seiko and King Seiko. Among the nine enduring rules were highly polished flat surfaces and bezels, multifaceted rectangular hour markers, double index at 12 o’clock, and a flat dial, half-recessed crown and curved sideline. The KSK was the first King Seiko to express the Grammar of Design. Its mirrorlike Zaratsu polishing on the steel case reflects light dramatically. The sapphire crystal over its subtle sunburst dial and simple geometric indices make the watch highly legible. King Seiko design hallmarks include:

• Sharp edges on all flat surfaces
• Applied logos and indexes, crisp lettering and a slight sunburst effect on the dial
• Deeply engraved KS signature on the crown
• Solid caseback with a gold KS medallion on most models. Two variations of the medallion were created along with a solid caseback on later models like the 52KS.
• Screw-down caseback for water resistance to 50 meters

Accuracy was a key factor in the King Seiko collection. The movements inside most KS models were subjected to Seiko’s internal chronometer certification, a process more rigorous than COSC certification. Seiko’s accuracy obsession culminated with the hi-beat Caliber 4500, which was used in basic or date-only versions in the KS45. Other King Seikos used 18,000 and 28,000 bph movements, including the 4420 and 5245. The finest of these movements were marked with “Special” or “VFA” for “Very Fine Accuracy” on the dial. As King Seiko exited the catalog, Seiko introduced the King Quartz collection with movements far more accurate than any mechanical version. While not part of the KS line, some styles did resemble King Seiko designs. 

Collecting and Owning King Seiko Watches

Seiko enthusiasts welcome any King Seiko into their collections, but the 52KS produced in 1971-1972 with the Caliber 5245 or 5246 (day/date) movement is considered by collectors to be the pinnacle. These watches carry the “Special” and “Chronometer” designations on the dial. In general, the 52KS and most other vintage King Seikos in good condition are priced between $600 and $1,000. Compared with Grand Seikos with a similar spec, vintage King Seikos provide great value at a fraction of the cost. 

For a modern take on King Seiko, look for the brand-new 140th-anniversary KSK heritage reedition (SJE083) of the 1965 original. This numbered limited edition of 3,000 watches features razor-sharp lines, Zaratsu polish and a gold medallion caseback along with Seiko’s Caliber 28,800 bph 6L35 movement. Priced at roughly $4,000 new, these watches are expected to retain their value on the resale market. 

Hi-beat movements require regular maintenance to ensure accurate operation. Faster-beat tempo means more accuracy and greater shock resistance, but 10 beats per second (or 36,000 bph) puts a lot of stress on the movement. With lower-beat movements, a longer service interval is appropriate, much like a Toyota Camry needs far less attention than a McLaren supercar.